17 Dec, 2007
Japanese Recipe, Live-action Edition: All About Anko
Posted by: Rachel In: Japanese Recipes
In the West, who would ever believe that anything as common as beans could ever become anything more than kick-ass burritos and tasty tail-gate chili? Beans have gotten a bad rap through the years as being poor man’s food and the “musical fruit”. Derisive songs have been sung mocking the bloating attributes of these tiny powerhouses. But in Japan, this lowly legume has transcended its humble beginnings to become one of the most widely used ingredients in desserts; Anko.
Anko is a building block in Japanese desserts, wagashi. Without anko, there wouldn’t be the profusion and variety of wagashi which exist today. Anko is made from red azuki beans which have been carefully boiled down to a chunky jam and is then sweetened. This whole bean variety of anko is known as tsubu or tsubushi-an.
Tsubu-an is used as filling in wagashi, a dessert topping, and as a sweet soup, zenzai. White beans are also used in creating anko. Shiro an is white anko, and is usually made from either lima or navy beans.
Anko also comes in different textures, one of which is koshi-an. Koshi an is a refined, smooth bean paste. Koshi-an is made from either azuki or white beans, which have been pulped and then strained to a satiny texture. Sugar syrup is then added to sweeten the paste. White beans are most commonly turned into koshi an rather than into tsubu an.
To create delicate, beautiful wagashi known as nerikiri, a mochi mixture, gyuhi, is added to shiro koshi-an. The end result is a paste similar to marzipan and can be tinted and molded into just about any shape.
Today’s edition is all about anko and we’ll be making a batch of each anko variety: Tsubushi-an and Shiro Koshi-an. Let’s get started transforming these shriveled beans into something worthy of an emperor!
Part 1 of 3:
Part 2 of 3:
Part 3 of 3:
Shiro Koshi-an
- 2 cups lima or navy beans, soaked overnight
- 1 cup water
- 2 cups sugar
- salt to taste, optional
1. Cook beans according to directions on package. Watch video for tips on cooking wagashi-worthy beans.
2. Mash cooked beans in a bowl until only the skins are recognizable.
3. Force mashed beans with the back of a spoon or a wooden pestle through a strainer to separate the bean meats from the skins. Drip some water from a faucet through sieve to help force bean meats through.
4. In a clean, unbleached piece of muslin, strain bean water by placing cloth in sieve or cup, adding bean water to center of cloth, twisting closed, and tightly wringing out water. Watch video for tips.
5. In a small sauce pan, heat water and sugar and bring to a boil. Boil for two minutes. Remove from heat.
6. In another saucepan, add strained bean paste and 1/4-1/2 cup sugar syrup, more or less to taste.
7. Heat and simmer on low till water is mostly evaporated, stirring constantly and making sure not to burn shiro-an. Shiro-an should be a satiny mass of paste when fully cooked.
8. Let shiro koshi-an cool on a cookie sheet or smooth surface. Use immediately or freeze for future use.
Makes 1 cup
Note: Azuki or green mung beans may also be used in koshi-an.
Tsubu-an
- 1 cup azuki beans
- 2 cups sugar
- 1 cup water
- Salt to taste, optional
1. Cook azuki beans according to directions. Watch video for tips on cooking wagashi-worthy beans.
2. After beans are desired firmness, drain beans and slightly mash beans to desired texture.
3. In a small sauce pan, heat water and sugar and bring to a boil. Boil for three minutes. Remove from heat.
4. Add 1/4 to 1/2 cup syrup to mashed beans. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until desired consistency.
5. Cool and serve.
Makes 2 cups
Note: White beans may also be used in tsubu-an.
