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05 Nov, 2007

Beginning Lolita - So You Want to Wear Japanese Brand Clothing.

Posted by: Curiosity In: Lolita Fashion

If you’ve decided you’d like to dress in Lolita style, the first thing you must realize is that Lolita clothing is extremely expensive. High quality Lolita is near impossible to purchase cheaply, since Japanese brand clothing costs just as much as high-end designer American clothing lines like Betsey Johnson or Diane von Fürstenberg. Someone who aspires to dress in those designers knows not to expect to find such items at Wal-Mart, and it is the same with Lolita. Although it may be possible to find a handful of Lolita-suitable blouses, socks and so forth at stores like H&M, you will still pay high prices for complete outfits.

metaBaby, The Stars Shine Bright and Metamorphose Temps de Fille are two brands with online shopping sites which offer international shipping and accept PayPal. Closet Child deals in used Lolita clothing, and is a bit cheaper than purchasing new items, but is still pricey. Their website also accepts PayPal and ships internationally. (Unlike the other two sites, Closet Child does not feature a shopping cart option. Customers email a list of their desired items and receive a PayPal invoice afterwards.) For other brands which do not ship outside of Japan, there are many overseas shopping services available. eBay and other auction sites offer Lolita clothing on occasion, yet these items are usually created by independent seamstresses and are not Japanese brands.

Why is Lolita brand clothing so expensive? There are a number of reasons. For starters, Lolita companies are not major manufacturers. These brands produce a small quantity of specialty items, usually in a single size, and once their inventory is depleted they have a tendency to invent new designs instead of resurrecting old ones.

Apart from accessories, most of the clothing is produced in-house by Japanese clothiers instead of being outsourced to third world countries. They are composed of first-rate materials (although there are exceptions, of course). The Moi Meme Moitie line has a renowned reputation for its exceptional fabric and lace, and is perhaps the most costly of brands.

Lower priced Lolita clothing, typically produced outside of Japan, has a tendency towards cheap, thin fabric and rough lace. It’s the old maxim - You Get What You Pay For. Would you rather spend $100 now on a poorly made dress which will only last you a couple of months, or save your money and spend $300 on a gorgeous dress which will be beautiful for years to come?

baby$100 dresses from places like Bodyline (and Hot Topic, although not Japanese) are mainly purchased by those who are uncertain about whether they will enjoy dressing in Lolita clothing. Granted, $300 (excluding accessories, shoes and the like) is a large commitment. But one would not purchase a budget dress in order to decide if they would like wearing a Vera Wang gown. Actually, wearing an ill-fitting, scratchy dress may sour a person on the idea of Lolita altogether.

Lolita brand clothing is most often created in a single size (although Metamorphose has started to sporadically offer “tall size” in some blouses and jackets). The majority of Japanese girls have a similar body type, which lessens the need for brands to produce S, M and L sizes in anything but shoes. If your figure matches precisely to this standard, you will not have a problem, but this is rarely the case. Most Lolitas tend to have fitting issues involving shoulders, arm circumference, bust, waist, and height. Check diligently with the measurements on the websites before purchasing.

curiosityIf you receive your item and fitting issues arise, you have two choices: constrain yourself with support garments, or take your clothing in to be altered. If your brand dress cuts off circulation at the waist yet fits perfectly otherwise, you should consider having it let out by a reputable tailor. If your dress requires three friends to shoehorn you into it, you should consider sending it back for a refund, or selling it and purchasing a new one. Ill-fitting Lolita has the same horrid look as any other ill-fitting clothing and should not bulge, pucker, slack or constrict.

If there is no possible way that you could fit into a Japanese brand dress, you can opt to have your clothing commissioned, which I will cover in a later installment.


About Curiosity: Curiosity Valentine is a contributing Lolita fashion writer with extensive knowledge of Lolita fashion. She’s spent time in Japan studying the subject matter and learning the language. She’s also the lead singer in the Gothic Lolita Industrial Jazz band, Curiosity. If you have any questions please feel free to comment below!

21 Responses to "Beginning Lolita - So You Want to Wear Japanese Brand Clothing."

1 | Faith

November 5th, 2007 at 10:52 am

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Interesting article. Thanks!

2 | bape hoodies

November 5th, 2007 at 10:10 pm

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I wear the japanese brand bape all the time.

3 | Curiosity

November 6th, 2007 at 11:55 am

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BAPE - Not a Lolita brand, but still very cool.

4 | Nashi

November 6th, 2007 at 4:30 pm

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Even though I’m not a total noob to the fashion, I still like the occasional introductory piece. I think this does a great job of explaining the price issue (which I grappled with a lot before I started.) It is an expensive habit, but I think its worth it in the end, especially if you know how to shop.

5 | Dyke*Star

November 9th, 2007 at 5:56 pm

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great article. excellent for beginners. but just an fyi, Innocent World is also offering sizes and Baby will occasionally make an AaTP shirt or pants item in “women’s” and “men’s” sizes. not that this means either brand will fit the avg. sized American woman but… yeah.

6 | Charming Monsters

November 16th, 2007 at 11:50 am

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Innocent World is wonderful, especially with their sizing options, but they don’t do overseas shipping just yet :(
Thanks for the article - I hope you write a future one that covers buying clothing through a shopping service (what to look for, reasonable fees, etc). I’ve been thinking about going that route, but still feel nervous about getting ripped off or paying way more than I budgeted!

7 | bape

November 30th, 2007 at 5:34 am

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ya bape is a pretty cool brand

8 | julieho

December 2nd, 2007 at 9:34 pm

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very hot! i’d slip some on. not to work but perhaps at night :)

9 | Lo

December 28th, 2007 at 4:09 am

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Hey, nice entry on Lolita fashion. I bought a few pieces of clothing from the Bodyline Rakuten site and I can’t wait for them to arrive! I kinda thought it was inadequate in the subject of Lolita footwear. Since I’ve always found it really strange for girls to be in these wonderful poofy petticoats and yet be wearing flats.

10 | Idu

December 28th, 2007 at 2:24 pm

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Nice introduction! Though I wonder - you claim, that buying cheaper outfits equals buying scraffy and unfitting clothing, and yet the next paragraph says the expensive brands hardly have variety on sizes. I bet a blouse that is too small “may sour a person on the idea of Lolita altogether”.

And believe it or not guys, cheaper brands do actually have fitting clothing that you can use for trying out lolitaness, I asure you! Like, who has 300 dollars to put into something that is merely an experiment? Or does lolitaness actually equal expensiveness? Are the pricy brands the only way to a true lolita-style? The Vera Wang -metaphor certainly speaks for it! Gee, around here 13-15 -year old girls are into lolita, I can imagine them going to their mom’s pockets “Please I wanna try out dress like a lolita, the dress costs 300 dollars, please!”

You wanna talk about people trying this style out? Then don’t make it exclusive for rich kids by saying the only way to try this out is to spend a whole lotta money. If they’re that into it, they can do that later.

11 | Firecat0

December 30th, 2007 at 1:10 am

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I disagree with you Idu. Sites like Metamorphose actually offer the measurements on their clothes. If the person is planning on buying it, they should read and take their own measurements ahead of time.

Places like Anna House do offer cheaper dresses that are said to be of good quality (just don’t forget that their prices are in Hong Kong Dollars.) If the person actually does the amount of research into the fashion that they should before they decide to try it out, they will find that if you want a good looking dress for really cheap, they’ll probably be making it themselves. Once they know about the fashion, they’ll be able to see that they may need to compromise. Buy that semi expensive dress to try the fashion, and if you find that it isn’t for you sell the dress!

Not only rich people can afford this stuff; I myself just bought the blue velveteen ribbon dress on sale at Metamorphose. For every other part of my outfit I will be searching the Thrift stores on 25 cent days, Walmart and other everyday stores for accessories. The crown, key, and ribbon motifs common in lolita are also very popular in the middle of America right now, as is the girly fifties style stuff which partly influences lolita.

A funny comment about Vera Wang and Lolita: When my dad found out that my mom had spent two-hundred dollars on the dress (when it was on sale!) he kinda yelped out, “Dang girl, where are you gonna wear that thing?! It’s not like it’s Vera Wang!” I about grinned and said, “Around. It’s one of the Vera Wangs of Lolita. : D”

Also, is that last picture supposed to be an example of bad bad bad bad lolita? If so could you point it out. I loved your article, it was very nice.

12 | rachel

March 16th, 2008 at 10:22 am

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I read your article. Very true but you left out lots of details. eBay has like 4/5 good Lolita custom made clothes providers that are way cheaper than the designers and are in still amazing quality. Also you forgot to cover that if you are an American with a big bust and a small waist(like me), like woman are supposed to be your going to have a hard time finding Lolita clothes and are either going to have to make them on your own or get them custom made.

13 | dolly

April 1st, 2008 at 8:31 am

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Good article. :]
I’m looking into buying some Lolita clothes, preferably sweet lolita. I found an amazing dress on Candy Violet, but I also love BSSB (baby, the stars shine bright) and anna house. Anna House is definitely cheaper and they have amazing dresses.

I bought some frilly socks with bows on them for three dollars at Target and some eight dollar shoes on sale at Hot Topic.

Anyways, I suppose my point would be that Lolita doesn’t have to be expensive, but if you want a good quality dress and you’re sure about it, go ahead and buy a good one, so it’ll last. You get what you pay for.

Also, Lolita isn’t just a style of dress. It’s a fashion movement that also, for some Japanese girls, has an ideology behind it. It’s a clinging to childhood, to innocence.
Anyways, yeah. Good article, good comments.:]

14 | Ophelia

April 10th, 2008 at 9:53 am

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I read your article, and I was just being curious, is that very last pic supposed to be a picture of Lolita?

I don’t mean to be blunt or to flame, but that isn’t a very good example of Lolita in my honest opinion. It’s more like a combination of a maid dress with a few snippets of Lolita here and there. Mainly because loli dresses don’t have aprons! It would’ve been pretty fine if not for the apron, which is in fact more mainstream in the maid culture.

And even the make-up isn’t very appropriate for Lolita. Lolita make-up should be very and I mean, very natural. It’s more to cover up flaws and enhance your facial features than to make facial features more dramatic. That’s why the eye shadow there just doesn’t cut it.

I’m sorry to say, but the pose isn’t very Loli-like either.

15 | Online Gamer

May 2nd, 2008 at 9:58 pm

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I wear bapes and evisu jeans when im playing games

16 | Jasmine

May 31st, 2008 at 9:48 pm

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Ophelia, actually quite a lot of lolita has aprons, but you’re right, the picture at the bottom isn’t lolita, its maid cosplay.

17 | Sam-chan

July 15th, 2008 at 8:22 pm

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This was an informative article but there are so many types of Lolita: Gothic, White, Black, Sweet…
Also many Japanese girls actually make their own Lolita clothes. I think like all fashion, it’s not about the brand it’s about having the ‘look’

18 | elena

July 22nd, 2008 at 6:35 am

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im just getting to finding out about lolita and the style i like is angelic pretty but how do i now if it is lolita brand or not cause there are so many webs how do i now if their fake or not

19 | kit

August 13th, 2008 at 12:35 am

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Your article was well written but seems a bit one sided. Fashion is an extension of self, Lolita especially is modern alt cliques is just that. The childlike wonder innocence and beauty from a time when women were dainty pretty things. A price tag or a designer label has really nothing to do with that. Sure the labels mentioned make some beautiful items but especially in Japan Lolita is very much a DIY culture. You may save up for one $300 jumper or skirt and blouse set but many if not most girls look for or make things that suit their personal tastes . As a designer and boutique owner myself I can say straight up that most basic staples of a Lolita wardrobe can be made in a day by any one with some imagination and basic sewing knowledge and skills. Your standard skirt require 2 1/2 to 3 yards fabric a $3 circle skirt pattern, 5 to infinity yards of lace, and either a zipper or elastic. 3 pattern pieces pinned and cut and 3 lengths of stitches plus hemming and then going nuts with your lace or appliqués. Certainly not worth the large price for something that at least several other people will have when you could make an OOAK. Etsy is another great source for US made OOAK and original designs at affordable prices if your not inclined with sewing. Anyone can buy a high buck dress, it takes real fashion and talent to wear and live an authentic and classic life by your own terms. Brand names not required

20 | Marluxia

August 13th, 2008 at 12:53 pm

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I love lolita. I’m a teenage girl, and you can wear it to Conventions, everyday outings, in Japan, or anywhere else.

21 | priscilla

August 28th, 2008 at 9:46 pm

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pretty neat article. it’s true that purchasing lolita clothes from stores is exorbitantly expensive, and lower-quality products usually aren’t worth it for those with a serious interest. beginners should try out some cheaper stuff-hot topic can sometimes have decent-quality dresses that don’t cost a fortune. or you could bypass the store altogether and make your own! if you’re really into it, it’s worth it to invest in a couple high-quality pieces, but making your own is very economical (especially for poor college students such as i) and you get exactly what you want. you must, of course, be a good seamstress, but practice makes perfect :]

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